| Culture and Art |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
| Mail service |
|
|
|
|
| Counters |
|
|
|
|
| The best site 2004 |
|
|
|
   |
|
|
National costume
Pages: 1 2 3
The second half of the 19th century became the epoch the birth of new power, which revived people's life and strengthened democratic tendencies.
The new exquisite style of Tatar costume, including women's one, was developing. Appearance of this style was contributed by the wide introduction of factory-made cloth, especially chintz, which let widen the hem of women shirt, flounces and factory-made shawls appeared.
Body conscious (in the upper part) dresses and short jackets corresponded to the new exquisite style. This second style of the Tatar costume, especially women's one, allowed a number of variations. Thus, women's shirt, still being wide and long (the requirement of traditions), varied considerably. It was attained mostly by shortening the hull and appearance of the hem and flounces.
In the beginning of the 20th century men clothing corresponding to the new style spread: a bit shortened shirt with sleeves cut out without gussets, shortened, with body conscious jackets, short 'kasakins', wide trousers of common European style, 'tubiteika' with flat top of black velvet as a headdress, 'chitek-kevesh' or shoes as footwear. Traditional men clothing of the Volga Tatars preserved little of local peculiarities, they are shown mostly in details: the form of the collar, attachment of the costumes of some groups to archaic forms (long shirts, jackets etc.), borrowed from neighbours elements of the costume.
The base of ensemble of any traditional men costume is a shirt and trousers, made of relatively light linen or cotton cloth.
As for peculiarities of the cut, in the middle of the 19th and the beginning of the20th centuries there were two types of men shirts: 1) tunic-shape - without a seam at the shoulders, with underarm gussets and wide godet inserts on the sides; 2) the shirt with bevel stitched shoulder and round armhole for sleeves.
Trousers are also the ancient part of Tatar closing. Concerning the cut, they are a variant of Turkic belt clothing, which in ethnographical literature are known as 'trousers loose in the seat'.
Common and constant feature of outer clothing, according to which we can systematize it, is the cut of its back. According to this feature all the variety of outer clothing can be divided into the two following types:
1) clothing with slim line back;
2) clothing with straight back.
In the end of 19th - the beginning of 20th centuries the first type of the clothing prevailed. This type includes: camisole, kasakin, bishmet, choba, bille chikmen, and bille tun.
Camisole was worn over a shirt. People considered it to be a kind of home dress.
Kasakin was a light long or shirt dressing with long sleeves. It was sewed only from factory-made cloth of dark colours.
Bishmet was a kind of long kasakin, also sewed from factory-made cloth. It was calf-long and had 5-stitched slim line back; warmed with wadding or sheep wool.
Choba was light a little longer then knee-level clothing without lining. It was sewed from linen or hempen home made cloth. Choba was an article of outer clothing. Together with a shirt and trousers it was a part of dowry.
Chikmen was long body conscious peasant demi-seasonal clothing, sewed from home-made cloth. Chikmen was fastened on the left side: a buttonhook was sewed to the edge of the right lap and a loop was sewed on the left one. In the beginning of the 20th century chekmen became a part of work wear in the most regions where the Tatars lived.
It still was an article of outer clothing for the baptized Tatars.Body conscious fur coat was one of the most ancient fur clothing. It was sewed from sheepskin, which was rarely tanned, with fur inside a coat. Well-to-do peasants would wear fox fur coat.
Clothing with the straight back includes jilyan, chikmen with the straight back, tulup. Jilyan was a long and loose spring-summer dressing gown with a small shawl collar; it was sewed from factory-made one-colour or with slightly seen stripes cloth. Jilyan was an article of outer clothing of men of middle age. It was worn when going to a mosque or to some work-places; it was usually accompanied with a long camisole or short kasakin.
Chikmen with a straight back was long and loose, deeply wrapped over, article of outer clothing; it had a narrow shawl collar and long slightly narrowed to the wrists sleeves.
Tulup was a long fur coat for traveling. Tulup was sewed from sheepskin or, more rarely, from fox fur. It was covered with dark factory-made cloth. There were also tulups made from tanned sheepskin.<<back next>> Pages: 1 2 3
|
|
|
|
|
|
Traveller's view  |
|
|
| Fri May 3 |
| night / day: | °/°C |
 |
|
| Sat May 4 |
| night / day: | °/°C |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Central Bank rates
|
|
Dollar USA
|
|
Euro
|
|
|
| Navigation |
|
|
|
|
| Search |
|
|
|
|
|
